To this ashram (this Sanscrit word we could roughly translate as ‘fussless and painless place’) The Beatles were invited to study transcedental meditation under the guidence of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, the very same person who “has revived the practical, ancient science that is capable of creating Perfect Health and Enlightenment for any individual and a society of Happiness and Peace – Heaven on Earth” (quot. from http://www.alltm.org ). But anyway it didn`t work out well between The Beatles and their guru.
Before I set off to the expedition I tried to get some information about current state of the ashram but there was actually not so many useful directions. I`ve come across some pics of weird egg-shaped stone shelters which reminded me both of eskimo`s dwellings and aliens` spaceships (just in case someone of you saw the same aliens` spaceships as I did…). The similar egg-shaped things were captured on the roofs of large three-four storey buildings.
All these impressive photos were accompanied by stories offering both vivid descriptions of the place and various algorithms for prohibited area penetration. Yes, according to those reports the access to the area wasn`t easy – you either should have give a certain amount of rupees to the guards at the massive stone gates or use some abandoned steps in the wild and dangerous indian jungles leading to even more abandoned rusted wicket
(photo from http://cosma.livejournal.com ).
(photo from http://cosma.livejournal.com ).
I was lucky as well to get hold of the Rishikesh City Map where you can easily spot the place named Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram. There is another ashram on this map which calls Parmath Niketan and sometimes the one is claimed to be the most beautifil ashram in Rishikesh and the very place where The Beatles lived in 1968. The first statement turned out to be the truth.
In short I had still a lot of vagueness about location but above all about these gloomy stone eggs which I suspected had nothing to do with bright White Album songs.
Some pictures from 1968 and Paul Saltzman memories made it a bit more clear for me what I was looking for: “The ashram sat on a small plateau among wooded hills. A narrow dirt road ran from the front gate to the back of the property, and a barbed-wire fence surrounded the property, ensuring the ashram's privacy. Along the road, away from the cliff, behind a low chain link fence were six long, whitewashed bungalows each with five or six double rooms. Flowerbeds filled with large red hibiscus blossoms garlanded the ashram and several vegetable gardens...” (Paul Saltzman,Beatles in India, 2005).
Some pictures from 1968 and Paul Saltzman memories made it a bit more clear for me what I was looking for: “The ashram sat on a small plateau among wooded hills. A narrow dirt road ran from the front gate to the back of the property, and a barbed-wire fence surrounded the property, ensuring the ashram's privacy. Along the road, away from the cliff, behind a low chain link fence were six long, whitewashed bungalows each with five or six double rooms. Flowerbeds filled with large red hibiscus blossoms garlanded the ashram and several vegetable gardens...” (Paul Saltzman,Beatles in India, 2005).
On the Rishikesh map one can see that the town consists of three parts: Rishikesh itself is situated on the right (west) low bank of the Ganges. Heading up-stream from the old town you soon reach the Swarg Ashram area which flows into the Lakshman Jhula district. Swarg Ashram and Lakshman Jhula are the areas where foreign and local tourists find preferable to live in. Each of these districts boasts a bridge and as one can learn from the plaque, current Lakshman Jhula bridge was constracted in 1930 to replace the washed away one.
That is the very same bridge that Ringo, his wife Moreen and a couple of suitecases stuffed with english beans crossed over heading for Maharishi ashram and several weeks of serenity.
That is the very same bridge that Ringo, his wife Moreen and a couple of suitecases stuffed with english beans crossed over heading for Maharishi ashram and several weeks of serenity.
When I saw Parmath Niketan Ashram it became clear to me that it was definitely NOT The Beatles Ashram, firstly and mainly because it sat on the low river bank and Saltzman couldn`t in any way describe this place as ‘a small plateau’ (the photo from http://www.migranov.ru).
While heading down-stream along the Ganges bank one can soon reach the end of the inhabited territory and the river bend. Shortly before there`s a sign on the road (photo from http://cosma.livejournal.com) giving a desperate beatlefan an excitement shiver. Just after the sign the flat river bank transforms into steep wooded cliffs which provide you with excellent view of old Rishikesh on the opposite river bank. What of course, I found out a bit later.
When I`ve turned to the right I saw a stone gate which I already knew from the pictures. The gate was locked up, two monkees were fighting on it. In a minute a couple appeared behind the gate as well as guard Hindu who let the couple out and reatreated immediately. Me and the couple exchanged glances and knowing grins.
Having come to the conclusion that the algorithm ‘admittance is strictly prohibited but...’ still works I nevertheless deeped into the wood. For one thing it`s kind of stupid to pay before it will come to light that you may NOT to pay. And for the other I was definite that one visit wouldn`t be enough for me so I was in extreme need for alternative way for breaking in The Beatles Reserve.
The road I was walking on could be better described as piles of gravel and boulders but it was reasonably wide for me and a monkee to pass one another without any international conflicts.
The road I was walking on could be better described as piles of gravel and boulders but it was reasonably wide for me and a monkee to pass one another without any international conflicts.
Both sides of the road were overgrown with shrubs having uncommonly well clutching prickles. I found this out after unsuccessful attempt of getting nearer to the wall surrounding the property. This wall by the way was as massive and stoney as Main Gate (I will call it this name). It was 1,5-2 meters high and sown with beaten glass above.
Twenty minutes of leisurely walk in the jungles and I`ve noticed the spot where plants were not so dense, it could hardly be called a path. Of course I immediately turned towards it. And that was a really wise move.
Protecting the remains of my clothes agains thorny shrubbery and memorizing the direction at the same time I have tumbled out to some deserted road in five minutes. And when I say ‘road’ I mean road. Some long time ago it was paved with red bricks now partly crumbled partly moss-grown and covered with dead leaves. The road led to the iron gate, painted in green and red and, surely enough, locked.
Twenty minutes of leisurely walk in the jungles and I`ve noticed the spot where plants were not so dense, it could hardly be called a path. Of course I immediately turned towards it. And that was a really wise move.
Protecting the remains of my clothes agains thorny shrubbery and memorizing the direction at the same time I have tumbled out to some deserted road in five minutes. And when I say ‘road’ I mean road. Some long time ago it was paved with red bricks now partly crumbled partly moss-grown and covered with dead leaves. The road led to the iron gate, painted in green and red and, surely enough, locked.
To the left of the gate stood abandoned sentry-box boasting of paneless windows and crumbled plaster. And on the right I`ve discovered what I was looking for – a brick wall with a hole in it giving me a long-awaited opportunity to enter the ashram.
Weird noises from behind the wall were reaching my ears. My lively imagination immediately showed me an image of security guards forcing their way through the jungles with rifles tilted forwards. Clenching my teeth and passport I got over the wall. And saw the source of noise right away: ashram was FULL of monkees. They were crowding along the road heading from the gate towards far away, flying from thin tree branches to even thinner ones and landing on the roofs of half-destroyed buildings looking out the bushes. If you ever had an experience of wandering in the woods full with St. Bernard dogs jumping from one tree to another than you`d probably be able to appreciate my feelings.
Meanwhile having a look round I coudn`t manage to reveal any sign of small stone egg-shaped things but only a four-storey bulding with figured windows and huge white eggs on the roof (I would like to find another word for those constructions but... alas!). However at the first place I headed the opposite direction, towards the small cottage showing white from the bushes.
And after coming closer, in three minutes after I found my way to the ashram I realized – this is it. I found the place.
And after coming closer, in three minutes after I found my way to the ashram I realized – this is it. I found the place.
This cottage or bungalow (see cottage #1 on the ashram map) was the only one among others with distinctive semicircular steps. One can see them on many beatle pictures which were taken in ashram in 1968.
Now the steps are covered with leaves and debris but still recognizable able.
There are no less than eight rooms inside the cottage, all with bathrooms, with sanitary engineering completely broken. Here`s more or less undamaged one.
Rooms - quite spacious, with two or three windows each - were empty.
Something looking like blackboards were hanging on the wall in every room.
A poster, abandoned apparently after vain attempts to drag it out, sticked out of the window. ‘Through the window of science we see the dawn of the age of enlightenment’, - Maharishi was informing .
Broken off window frames, wooden folding doors painted blue long time ago, peeled plaster walls – little remained the same after forty years.
But gentle afternoon sunshine falling down through the windows, the wind dry and warm, wandering in the empty rooms, rustling leaves outside – all this dipped me into the primal peace and sweet serenity and there was a feeling that nothing wrong can happen with me here. There was no point in hiding anymore and a vague thought of leaving this place was pointless as well.
Stone stairs sided one of the outside cottage walls. Its led to the roof from which beautiful view of the mountains was available.
Sun was setting down somewhere across the river so I had to start my long journey back home, to Lakshman Jhula.
In following few days I visited the ashram for several times sketching ashram plan and cottage #1 scheme, taking pictures. Surprisingly enough but I never saw there a single monkee anymore. I met two or three couple of tourists instead. They were wandering around, climbing up the main building roofs and capturing the views but I never saw any of them near the ‘beatle’ bungalow. No other fidgets were trying to shed light upon which place these fabulous Beatles lived in after all.
If one takes a look on the ashram map he will see six cottages in a row rougly of the same type – no more no less. Between the third and the forth ones was one more building overgrown with plants so much that its shape remained unrevealed by me. But from its size I`d presume that it was some secondary premise.
In following few days I visited the ashram for several times sketching ashram plan and cottage #1 scheme, taking pictures. Surprisingly enough but I never saw there a single monkee anymore. I met two or three couple of tourists instead. They were wandering around, climbing up the main building roofs and capturing the views but I never saw any of them near the ‘beatle’ bungalow. No other fidgets were trying to shed light upon which place these fabulous Beatles lived in after all.
If one takes a look on the ashram map he will see six cottages in a row rougly of the same type – no more no less. Between the third and the forth ones was one more building overgrown with plants so much that its shape remained unrevealed by me. But from its size I`d presume that it was some secondary premise.
Other five cottages slightly differed from the first one being at the same time similar to it in size and planning. There were no semicircular steps and frontal sides of them were fenced by the walls.
The wall in front of cottage # 6 was decorated with the inscription JAI GURU DEVA OM.
These five cottages I found much more dark and gloomy than the first one. The insides were painted in blue, piles of debris and half-decayed rags were on the floor making sure that no normal man (or woman) will dare to go inside. Well, I obviously was not normal...
In the rooms I saw shelves, fitted in the walls and covered with bottles (emptied) and decomposed newspapers (english).
Along the cottages` row one could see something I took a risk of defining as late steep pavement. But this could be former flower beds as well.
The building next door to the cottage # 6 is marked on the map as “Meeting Hall “Lions” because of the brick-red bas-relief above the entrance door.
Vast empty premise was most likely the spot where meditations and meetings took place. At the one end of the hall was some kind of podium with a throne on it. The ceiling threatening to collapse in every moment bristled up with roof timbers.
The hall walls were covered with various inscriptions and drawings, most of them obviously done in the state of enlightenment.
Having approached to the podium I suddenly realized what exactly Robinzon felt when he saw a bare foot print on the sand of his deserted island. There was a plate which informed everyone in fluent russian: “I`m off back home”.
The similar meeting hall – podium, enlighted drawings and timbers – I`ve discovered on the other side of the road, closer to the river bank. It was just a bit smaller.
Nearby towered two buildings – three- and four-storey ones. At the first sight they were in the already familiar state of neglect. And at the second too. But these two buildings somehow left to me a lasting impression that after a good remodelling job they could serve as a passable hotel. Or ashram.
Nearby towered two buildings – three- and four-storey ones. At the first sight they were in the already familiar state of neglect. And at the second too. But these two buildings somehow left to me a lasting impression that after a good remodelling job they could serve as a passable hotel. Or ashram.
From their roof tops one can have a pefect view of mountains, Ganges, distant temple and the neighbouring roof top.
Among other premises in this part of ashram I`d like to mention the small round pavillion and the verandah nearby the steep river bank. In front of verandah one can see something which I`d call a fountain or swimming pool if it had some water in it. On the map it is labelled as “Prudence`s Verandah”.
“But where are the stone eggs?” – I asked myself after some time. Stone eggs revealed itself quite soon. Not far from the pavillion there were stone stairs leading down to the area all covered with these strange shelters.
From the numbers above the entrance to every such house I concluded there must be no less than a hundred of them. I didn`t enter them because I knew already from the pics what could wait me inside – nothing. Besides they were kind of dismal...
After crossing the ‘egg-houses’ area over one can find a couple of two- three-storey buildings with wooden banisters. I didn`t dare to go further because somewhere in that direction I could come across the brave gate guards which wasn`t in the plan considering my stowaway status.
The proper exploration of the ashram territory resulted in the following conclusion: now it is as if two ashrams were on the same territory enclosed within one wall. One of them we could call The Beatles Ashram which includes six cottages of that time, two big buildings and meeting halls. Another one (“egg-houses” area) one can observe down the hill, closer to the town and the Main Gate. One road, partly asphalted partly paved, joins both areas together. Rusted remains of wire fence which I discovered right on the border between two parts could be the evidence of this assumption. Or just rusted remains of wire fence.
Of course, all of this territory can be the Maharishi ashram which was eventially widening in 70-ties while TM flourished all around the world bringing some cents to its founder. Anyway these egg-shaped things most likely were constracted here later and didn`t witness The Beatles visit in 1968 and hence have nothing to do with White Album. Oh, what a relief then...
But still I longed to find one more place which Saltzman described as “the cliff” where the Beatles and everybody were spending most of their care-free days in the ashram watching down to the Ganges waters.
Logically enough I have thought that “the cliff” should be somewhere on the steep bank of the river not far from the “beatle part” of the ashram. It turned out to be difficult to find the very place because all the river bank was covered with ubiquitos shrubbery, cactuses and small trees. Red hibiscus blossoms brightened up the neighbourhood.
Logically enough I have thought that “the cliff” should be somewhere on the steep bank of the river not far from the “beatle part” of the ashram. It turned out to be difficult to find the very place because all the river bank was covered with ubiquitos shrubbery, cactuses and small trees. Red hibiscus blossoms brightened up the neighbourhood.
The river bank was partly fenced in low stone wall. Here and there under the layers of dust and flora dead and alive one could see an asphalt covering.
After a while I`ve come across very familiar semicircular steps among the grass leading to the small lawn.
After a while I`ve come across very familiar semicircular steps among the grass leading to the small lawn.
From above the steep bank I could see the restless and rapid waters of the Ganges, old Rishikesh and all its temples from which the sounds of evening prayers wafted to my ears, mountains vaguely towering far away, blinding sunset bringing tears to my eyes.
And again it seemed pointless to go somewhere else. This place had it all.
And again it seemed pointless to go somewhere else. This place had it all.
Than I sat down, legs-crossed, onto the warm stones, looked up into the deep evening sky and said to somebody: “Thank you. Thank you I am here”.
P.S. In April of 2010, three years after my first visit, I came to the ashram again. And not alone but with my husband and a videocamera. Coming soon - The Ashram Movie! (when I have time to edit it). Here are some new pictures:
